Martin Grant is arguably Australia's most successful fashion export, and this weekend he lands in New Zealand for the first time. Rosie Manins caught up with the Paris-based designer before he journeyed to Dunedin as this year's international guest of the 15th anniversary iD Dunedin Fashion Show.
When Martin Grant answers the telephone, he is on the terrace of his top-floor inner-city Parisian apartment, watching the Eiffel Tower's evening beacon.
He has had his first day off in three weeks after showing his latest collection at Paris Fashion Week.
I ask what one does with a spare day in Paris.
Grant has enjoyed lunch with his ''dear friend'' Lee Radziwill, the younger sister of Jackie Kennedy and a front-row regular at his shows.
They were given a private viewing of the new Dries Van Noten exhibition at Musee des Arts Decoratifs, which was opened for them especially, then they went shopping in Saint-Germain-des-Pres, an area of Paris famed as the centre of existentialism.
Paris has been Grant's home for almost 25 years.
Born and raised in Melbourne, he found an inspiring work-life balance in Paris.
''France is kind of the birthplace of fashion and Paris for me is still the most interesting, creative place to see designer fashion shows. It's a big city but there's also a slight village feel to it - a light, airy feel to it - that I like.''
If Grant had not entered the fashion industry, he would have become a landscape architect ''without hesitation''.
His love of nature and wide open spaces is fuelling excitement about his first trip to New Zealand.
''I've always heard New Zealand is the best place for nature. For years I've been meaning to come to New Zealand so it's the perfect opportunity.''
Before Grant was invited to participate in iD, he heard about the event from his friend and Australian fashion journalist Glynis Traill-Nash, who was a guest judge of last year's iD International Emerging Designer Awards.
Grant says his knowledge of New Zealand fashion is limited, and he is excited about being exposed to the best Dunedin has to offer.
''For me, it [iD] is very much an experience. I come from a place probably not dissimilar to Dunedin - Melbourne - so I know what it's like to be operating from that side of the world.''
After showing his current spring/summer collection at iD, Grant will spend time touring the country.
He plans to visit friends in Christchurch and Auckland, then spend a few days exploring Great Barrier Island.
''It sounds like it's very beautiful and untouched there.''
Audiences at iD can expect to see signature Martin Grant style, simple and elegant with a hint of couture.
His spring/summer collection is ''very graphic and a little bit 1930s''.
Grant's new winter collection is still being worked on and cannot be taken away from Paris just yet.
As a young designer he created both men's and women's wear, but has built a business around female fashion.
The exception is his recent designing of a mass-produced commercial uniform for Qantas.
Grant says the fashion industry is forever changing, and slightly more demanding than it used to be.
Over the past decade, expectations on designers have intensified, and annual productivity has doubled from two collections to four.
''We have what we call the pre-collection or cruise collection. Also, with the internet, everything moves so much faster and you have to be constantly performing.''
Far from flamboyant, Grant's personal style is about classic style and comfort.
His wardrobe of navy blue and black comprises pieces which can be worn together.
''Personally, I wear a uniform. Everything goes with everything so I don't really have to think about it in the morning - good pants or jeans, a T-shirt or sweater, and over that a jacket or coat.''
Despite his own clothing conservatism, Grant enjoys seeing others embrace varied dress.
He says for every garish garment, accessory or trend at the trashy end of the style spectrum, there is a person who wears it with panache.
''It's always great when you see someone wearing something and you think, `Oh my God, that shouldn't exist but it looks fantastic'. That's often the case in Australia or maybe in New Zealand where people dare to do things that people wouldn't do in Paris.''
Grant's clothes are stocked around the world, and although he loves the idea of a permanent return to Australia, it remains less of a practical option at this stage.
''After 25 years I'm very much at home here [Paris]. I love Melbourne and miss the space, the nature and my family, but it's hard for me to imagine setting up shop in Australia.''
Grant will show his collection at Dunedin Railway Station on Friday and Saturday.
iD Dunedin Fashion Week has featured international designer guests every year since 2010.
British fashion designer Zandra Rhodes brought her colourful classic chiffon and organza evening wear to show at the Dunedin Railway Station in 2010.
Australian designer Akira Isogawa flew in from Paris Fashion week to show in 2011 and help judge the emerging designer awards.
Paris-based German designer Lutz Huelle attended the following year with a retrospective collection.
Last year British milliner to the stars Stephen Jones brought his hats and headwear creations.
Be there
Martin Grant will show collections on the Friday and Saturday night iD fashion shows at Dunedin Railway Station, on April 4 and 5.
There is an opportunity to meet Martin Grant at the iD hub at the Golden Centre Mall, Dunedin, on Thursday, April 3 from 3pm to 3.30pm.
