The hills of Central Otago around Alexandra, are gloriously covered in thyme flowers.
The pungent aroma of thyme fills the air, especially when you walk through it.
Two theories exist about how thyme came to Central: the most common is that it came with goldminers, but Brian Patrick, director of Central Stories Museum in Alexandra says it is more likely it was brought by French miner, horticulturalist and winemaker Jean Desire Feraud who had an estate near Clyde in the 1860s and '70s.
Originally, before the Maori came to the region, the area round Alexandra, Clyde and Ophir was sparsely covered with small shrubs, other plants and lichens.
Early photographs show a lot of bare land after gold-mining and floods.
Of all the exotic plants that came into the area, thyme was the one that colonised the dry, barren lands successfully.
Its volatile oils prevent other plants growing nearby, and rabbits only eat it when desperate.
However, many native insects have adapted to it, Mr Patrick says.
Central Otago thyme has tiny leaves compared with garden thyme but the flavour is more intense, according to Mark Sage, chef at Gibbston Valley Winery restaurant.
He uses the thyme that grows on the hills behind the winery in several dishes, including with wild hare - although it's a bit more work to gather and strip than bought thyme, which has soft stems, he says.
A time to forage
It's always nice to forage for wild food or herbs, and the thyme is worth harvesting if you have a little time in Central.
You'll find the pungent little grey twiggy bushes on road-sides and waste ground from Roxburgh to Gibbston.
At this time of year most have pale lilac flowers.
Pick some sprigs - don't take too much from any one plant so it will continue to grow.
When you get it home, rinse the sprigs in running water, dry in a salad spinner or tea towel and spread them on paper towels on a tray in a sunny window for a week or so to dry.
When dry, rub the sprigs between your hands over a tray so the tiny leaves fall off.
Pick out any stems and store the herb in an airtight jar or tin.
Thyme, especially dried thyme, is strongly flavoured and a little goes a long way.
It is good in foods that can carry strong flavours such as stocks, soups and stews.
It goes well with bay, savory, rosemary and parsley.
Rabbit with thyme, garlic and mustard is a classic combination - especially if it's a Central Otago rabbit and ready-flavoured with the thyme it may have eaten.
Za'atar
One of my favourite ways to use thyme is in za'atar or zahtar, a Middle Eastern spice mix made with sesame seeds and sumac, a sharp, red spice that is available in good supermarkets.
It was originally made with wild thyme that grows around the Mediterranean, so it's nice to use the wild local herb, but it's also good made with fresh wild or garden thyme.
2 Tbsp sesame seeds
1 1/2 Tbsp dried thyme or 2 1/2 Tbsp fresh thyme
2 1/2 tsp sumac
1/4 tsp salt
Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan, tossing over medium heat until fragrant and starting to colour.
When cool, grind with thyme, salt and sumac in a mortar and pestle.
Za'atar is good with oil sprinkled on flat bread before it is baked, and I enjoy it as a dip with sourdough and olive oil, and, at this time of year, with fresh radishes.
It is also good sprinkled on salads, eggs and fresh labna or yoghurt cheese.
