The afternoon-tea habit developed in England when tea began to be imported from India in the 1850s. Sandwiches and cakes were served with the tea and one of the favoured cakes was a fruit tea loaf. Deservedly popular, it was often served at family gatherings and funerals. At about the same time, a really effective baking powder was developed in the US and lighter cakes and scones made their appearance. Before that, yeast was the raising agent for most breads and cakes.
This classic tea loaf, originally yeast-risen, has a number of names: fruit tea loaf, tea cake, currant bread, barm brack in Ireland and in Wales bara brith (speckled bread). A great favourite in New Zealand during the 1970s and '80s, fruit loaf, sliced and buttered, was proudly on display in the glass cabinet in most tearooms and coffee bars (as they were called then) throughout the country.
About six months ago on a trip through the Mackenzie Country, we were served a generous slice of Irish tea loaf with our morning coffee. Toasted and served with butter, it was absolutely delicious and didn't need buttering.
Food fashions come and go and I think it's time we celebrated the return of the fruit tea loaf, which is of course a light fruit cake. I've been tweaking this recipe for several weeks now and we have eaten quite a number of fruit tea loaves and at last I'm happy with the recipe.
I prefer to bake it in a ring tin.
Cooked in a loaf tin, the corners tend to dry out a little and there is a tendency for a slightly soggy middle. Sometimes I use a mixture of currants, raisins and sultanas for a homely, everyday version and other times I go a little upmarket with the dried fruit.
A lovely mix is 100g each of New Zealand dried apricots, crystallised ginger, dried cranberries, currants and raisins.
Soaking the fruit in hot strong tea for several hours plumps it up. I have used several of the black teas; Earl Grey, English Breakfast and Darjeeling but I think some of the fruit-flavoured teas or herbal infusions would work well, too.
Number 83 tea cake
500g mixed dried fruit
120g dark cane, muscovado or brown sugar
2 Tbsp golden syrup
250ml cup strong, hot tea
1 large egg, size 7, beaten
260g self-raising flour
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cloves
Line the base and lightly spray the sides of a 20cm ring tin or a 21cm x 11 cm loaf tin (6-7 cup capacity).
Put the dried fruit into a large bowl. Add the sugar and golden syrup and pour over the hot tea. Leave to soak for 30 minutes or overnight. I often zap it in the microwave on full power for 2 minutes. This speeds up the whole process - the fruit becomes plump and moist very quickly. Cool a little to lukewarm before proceeding with the recipe.
Using a fork, beat the egg into the dried fruit mixture.
Sift the flour, baking soda, cinnamon and cloves into the fruit mixture and stir to mix.
Spoon and scrape the mixture into the prepared tin and bake in an oven preheated to 160degC for 45-55 minutes for the ring tin and about 15 minutes longer for the loaf tin, or until a skewer poked in the middle comes away clean. Do not overcook. Cool in the tin on a rack.
Store for 24 hours if possible before slicing, as it is easier to cut when firm.
Can be sliced and frozen. Remove frozen slices and thaw as needed.
Fruit loaf will keep for about a week stored in an airtight container in a cool place.
• Joan Bishop said she looked at hundreds of recipes in the course of developing this one. She didn't know what to call it, so gave it her street number!