Honouring the past with kai

Reflecting on Matariki, The Māori New Year stirs conflicting emotions for me as a Pākehā/Māori. I have primarily identified as Pākehā despite te ao Māori being quietly influential in my upbringing and self. The sense of detachment I have always felt led me to distance myself from Māori culture, as I was not raised to actively engage with or appreciate my cultural heritage. My recent studies have encouraged me to question — or seek a deeper understanding of — this detachment and the impact of colonisation on iwi Māori. Only now am I beginning to comprehend the sacrifices they were forced to make to keep us "safe" in a life influenced by Pākeha culture.

Dad was raised a whāngai child by his Nanny Mako. I never got the pleasure of meeting this remarkable woman my father spoke so fondly of, but when she died, his connection to his Māori culture was lost.

Despite our Pākehā upbringing, Dad’s Māori values were evident. His love of kaimoana and pork bones and puha. The manaakitaka he extended to everyone who crossed his path, and the weekend parties with all the aunties and uncles. He was a spiritual man and had an affinity for the stars.

My father was a tattoo artist, and he upheld the significance of mana in "Tā Moko", one of New Zealand’s oldest tattooing traditions. During the cultural renaissance of kapa haka in the 1970’s, he played a vital role in its revival by incorporating its intricate patterns and designs into his work.

Unfortunately, Dad died in 2017. There are so many unanswered questions that linger within me, questions I wish I could have asked him while he was still alive. Did he, too, experience a disconnection from his own culture? Did he carry a burden of shame and wrestle with the confusion of his identity? But above all, I yearn for the chance to delve into his cherished memories of childhood, those precious moments shared with his Nan and the stories of her life and whakapapa of our hapū —

Ngai Tahu Matawhāiti kei Iwitea — to help ensure the continuity of that cultural legacy or whakapapa in our whanau.

As the recognition of Mātauranga Māori has gradually grown, I have observed my husband and daughter wholeheartedly embrace it while I have remained distant. Observing their achievements has provided me with some solace, but it has also caused me embarrassment. I find it challenging to articulate even the simplest Māori words, and I feel remorseful for not genuinely making an effort to learn my own language and culture, to confidently stand beside my family in this new, inclusive society.

Nonetheless, the few occasions when I have had to enter a marae due to my husband’s profession have magnified my imposter syndrome. The anxiety of being discovered as someone with Māori heritage but lacking understanding of te ao Māori and the inability to confidently articulate my whakapapa lineage burdens me. In those moments, a profound sense of inadequacy emerges, leaving me feeling unworthy and undeserving of occupying such a sacred environment.

Throughout the past few months, I have experienced moments of clarity that have significantly impacted me. For example, during my regular run through the woods I have sensed a profound bond with my tupuna, almost as if they are right there alongside me. It’s a feeling I find hard to articulate. Their presence resonates within me and gives me the strength and motivation to continue this journey of cultural connection. Throughout this journey, I am at last recognising and embracing different facets of my identity and my belief system that align with my Māori heritage, reflecting the inherent spirituality I have always possessed.

So, on this Matariki day celebration, as I shed the negative stigma from the past and explore the beautiful tapestry of my Māori heritage, I honour my father, my tūpuna, and give thanks to those who paved the way before me.

Food is central in every Matariki celebration and the recipes I have shared with you are inspired by my father’s love of kaimoana. 

The fry bread accompanying the chowder is like a savoury doughnut, crispy on the outside, light, and fluffy inside — they are moreish! 

Anchovies are not to everyone’s taste, but this dressing really elevates the humble fish cake and is a lighter alternative to tartare sauce.

If mangos are in season, then the tomato in the salsa can be replaced for a summer vibe "fish taco."

Māori fry bread Paraoa Parae

(Modified from Māori Television website)

Serves 6

½ cup water (lukewarm)

½ cup milk (lukewarm)

½ tbsp dried active yeast

½ tbsp sugar

½ tbsp plain flour

2 cups plain flour

1 pinch salt

2 tbsp canola oil (extra for frying)

Method

Combine the water, milk, yeast, sugar and ½ tbsp of plain flour in a bowl and set aside in a warm part of the kitchen for 10 minutes (if your house is cold like mine, then run your clothes dryer for 10 minutes to warm up, then pop the bowl of dough inside the drum to activate the yeast).

In a large bowl, combine the 2 cups of plain flour, salt, and canola oil. Slowly add the yeast mixture to the dry mix. Fold together gently, being careful not to overmix. There will be lumps; that’s OK.

Cover the dough and leave it to prove in a warm part of the kitchen till it has doubled in size (repeat the clothes dryer method if necessary). This will take around 30-40 minutes.

Remove dough from the bowl on to a lightly floured bench. Roll to a 2cm thickness and cut into 6cm×6xm squares. Cover the dough and leave to prove on the bench for 15 minutes.

Heat a medium-size pot of oil to 165degC.

Gently place dough in the hot oil and cook until golden brown.

Once cooked, remove from oil, and drain on a paper towel, Sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Serve with the seafood chowder.

Seafood chowder

Serves 6

Ingredients

¾ cup dry white wine

1.5kg shellfish (I used mussels and clams)

1 large potato, cubed 1cm

50g butter

1 leek, diced

1 carrot, diced

2 clove garlic, chopped

½ cup flour

1 litre fish stock

1 bay leaf

2 sprigs thyme

250ml cream

250ml full milk

300g smoked fish (I used kingfish)

1 fillet of white fish (I used blue cod)

1 fillet of salmon

Chopped parsley to garnish

Sea salt & pepper

Method

In a large pot, heat the wine and add the shellfish, cover, and steam until the shells open. (I usually stand ready to extract each one as it opens with a pair of tongs). Set the shellfish aside. Reduce the wine by half then set aside.

Meanwhile, tip the potatoes into a small pot of boiling water to cover and simmer till fork tender. Drain and set aside.

Heat the butter in a large saucepan and gently cook the carrots, leek, and garlic, until tender. Add the flour, stirring to form a roux. Add the wine and a little fish stock and stir to a thick paste. Gradually add the rest of the stock, and the bay leaf and thyme, stirring to ensure no lumps form.

Add the milk and cream, using a whisk to form a smooth base.

Add in all the seafood and the cooked potato and bring to a gentle simmer then remove from the heat.

Serve garnished with parsley and the Māori fry bread.

Fish tacos

Serves 4

Salsa

4 ripe tomatoes deseeded and diced

1 red chilli, deseeded and diced

½ small red onion, finely chopped

¼ tsp salt

1 Tbsp lime juice

Chipotle Crema

½ cup sour cream (room temperature)

¼ cup good quality mayonnaise (I like Best Foods)

2 Tbsp chipotle chilli sauce or similar (adjust to your own tastebuds)

Slaw

½ red cabbage, finely shredded

Zest of 1 lime and 1 orange

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 tsp sugar

Fish

200g plain flour

¼ tsp salt

½ tsp baking powder

300ml cold lager

Canola oil for frying

8 tortillas

400g white fish, cut into fingers (I use gurnard, snapper or blue cod)

To serve

1 small bunch coriander leaves, chopped

1 avocado

Lime quarters to serve

Method

Combine the tomatoes, red onion, and chilli with a tablespoon of lime juice. Season to taste.

Combine the crema ingredients in a bowl and set aside.

For the slaw whisk the lime juice, zest, sugar, and olive oil and toss with the shredded cabbage.

Mix the flour, salt and baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk in just enough cold beer to make a thick paste the consistency of double cream.

Bring a deep sided pot a third full of oil up to temperature around 180degC.

Meanwhile warm the tortillas in a dry pan and wrap them in a tea towel.

Dip the fish in the batter, shaking off any excess, then fry in batches for about two minutes on each side, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with flaky salt.

Put a spoonful of slaw in the middle of each taco and place the fish on top. Add the avocado, salsa, and chilli crema, topped with fresh coriander and lime wedges.

Fish cakes

Serves 4

400g Agria potatoes, peeled and quartered

2 Tbsp olive oil

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 thyme sprigs

½ lemon, sliced

300g fish (I use a combination of salmon and white)

300g smoked fish

Handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped

½ cup plain flour

2 medium eggs, lightly beaten

1½ cups of panko crumbs

¼ cup canola oil

Anchovy dressing

2 Tbsp capers

2 small shallots, peeled and finely chopped

Zest of a lemon

Bunch flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped

1 small tin of anchovies, chopped (about 6)

½ cup of good quality extra virgin olive oil

Method

Put the potatoes in a pot of well-salted water to cover and bring to the boil.

Cook for 10-15 minutes until tender when pierced with a knife. Drain well and mash. Mix in the first measure of olive oil, zest and juice. Season to taste, cool.

Add thyme, lemon slices and all the fish to a wide pan of slowly simmering salted water and gently poach for a few minutes until cooked. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel to cool down.

Flake the fish and add with the parsley to the mashed potatoes, gently mixing with your hands. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Divide mixture into four rounded patties.

Season the flour with salt and pepper, coat the patties with the flour then dip into the egg and finally into the panko crumbs, turning to evenly coat all over.

Chill in fridge to set (minimum ½ hour).

To cook, heat the oven to 180degC. Heat a thin layer of canola oil in a wide ovenproof frying pan. Fry the fish cakes for 2-3 minutes until golden brown, then flip over and fry for a further 1-2 minutes. Finish cooking in oven for 5-7 minutes.

To make the dressing, gently warm the ingredients in a small pot for 3-4 minutes.

Spoon a dollop on each warm plate and place the fish on top, with a further spoonful on top. Serve with steamed greens.