An unveiling at Te Papa is causing a stir in Wellington. Jude Hathaway reports.
The draw of romance, glamour and extravagance has been shown over the past few days since the spectacular exhibition "Unveiled: 200 years of wedding fashion" opened at Te Papa, in Wellington, on Saturday.
That crowds have flocked is unsurprising for this is an exhibition of extraordinary fashion from one of the world's best collections housed at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
"Te Papa is thrilled to have been able to work with the Victoria and Albert Museum to bring this exhibition to New Zealand,"says Claire Regnault, Te Papa's senior curator of history.
"Internationally, the V&A is considered a world leader in the field of art and design, and we hope that this exhibition marks the beginning of a long and fruitful relationship between our two institutions."
The line-up of gowns is exciting and diverse. Made between 1828 and 2008, they create a series of rich stories that often reflect the social and economic conditions of their time.
Some are inspired by tradition and practicality; others by celebrity and fantasy.
"There are stories of long and happy lives, of lives cut short, of scandalous lives, and ordinary lives," remarks Regnault.
"Unveiled" comprises 42 gowns displayed on mannequins and approximately 60 other items including veils, hats, shoes, gloves, garters, lingerie and stylish menswear.
The exhibition has come to Wellington via its first showing in Australia.
In April it heads to Singapore then on to Moscow before it makes its UK debut in London.
Edwina Ehrman of the Victoria & Albert Museum, who curated the exhibition, reveals that the gowns travel between venues on the mannequins in their crates. She is there to oversee the setting up and dismantling of the exhibition while it is on tour.
Another who is vital to the exhibition's preparations in Wellington was Keryn Miller, a display specialist who ensures the gowns are shown on the mannequins as they would have been when worn by their brides.
Breathing life into each gown is an accompanying description.
It is evident Ehrman has chosen the gowns for their romantic or spectacular attributes. But it was also imperative that her selected gowns were robust enough to endure their long journey.
Exhibition highlights include lavish gowns designed by some of the most prominent names in international fashion - Charles Worth, Norman Hartnell, Christian Lacroix and Vivienne Westwood.
A pleasing aspect for Claire Regnault is the inclusion of commissioned gowns and a groom's outfit from New Zealand designers World, Pacific fashion expert Lindah Lepou and bridalwear specialist Jane Yeh.
Ehrman's exploration of the relationship of bridal wear and fashion is an important aspect of the exhibition. The cut and decorative detail of gowns such Margaret Scott Lang's flounced silk dress for her wedding in 1857 show that bridal styles followed fashion as much in the 19th century as they do now.
The growing influence of evening wear on bridal regalia in the early 20th century is delightfully illustrated by a 1914 Aida Woolf dress and train of silk and machine lace, embroidered with glass beads.
The materials, layered construction and scalloped hemline were at the height of evening fashion at the time.
The stunning Norman Hartnell gown above was designed for society beauty Margaret Whigham for her first marriage to Charles Sweeney in 1933. The gown of silk, satin and tulle, embroidered with glass beads, incorporates a 3.6-metre train.
The gowns march on through the 20th century taking in the austerity of World War 2, the "New Look" of the late 1940s, the minis and maxis of the '60s and the nostalgia and romance of the '70s.
A 1976 dress by Zandra Rhodes, who came to New Zealand last year as iD Dunedin Fashion Week's special guest, was made for Elizabeth Weiner, who married David Emmanuel. The Emmanuels went on to design the wedding dress of Lady Diana Spencer to Prince Charles.
The celebrity wedding dresses that began creating heightened interest in the 1990s are also represented.
These include the John Galliano gown worn by Gwen Stefani at her 2002 marriage to fellow musician Gavin Rossdale.
British designer Vivienne Westwood's spectacular dress for Dita Von Teese's marriage to rock musician Marilyn Manson in 2005 is also among thosein this evocative exhibition.
"Unveiled" continues at Te Papa until April 22.
Calling all brides
Te Papa wants your wedding photo.
To celebrate the "Unveiled" exhibition, Te Papa is creating an online gallery of photographs of New Zealand wedding and civil union fashion over the decades.
These photos will provide a rich record of changes in New Zealand wedding style.
Send in your wedding photos and stories to share with Te Papa's online community by visiting the website www.tepapa.govt.nz/weddingdress
