Men's Fashion Week, set in the ornate streets of Milan, Italy, launched a new year's fashion calendar into motion. The first European fashion week of the year served an array of in-person and online Autumn/Winter ’22 fashion shows, illuminating the next chapter in menswear from fashion’s vanguard.
Street styles featured chunky cable knits complemented by boxy over-sized tailoring and accentuated with a rich palette of autumnal colours that were woven into elaborate prints and patterns. An air of warmth and renaissance was present, giving forecast to the future of men’s autumn/winter fashion.
Let’s take a closer look at the emerging menswear trends found during Milan Men’s fashion week 2022.
Chunky knits
At first glance, chunky knits dominate catwalk and street styles, softening the edges of avant-garde ensembles with cosy texture and bulk. From thick cable knit features to bundled turtlenecks to colourful V-neck patterns, it appears the more texture the better.
Consider these cosy-knit elements when curating a wardrobe for the coming seasons. Embrace the building block of a turtleneck and infuse character into your knits with those sculptural cables, bobbles and abstract patterns.
Autumnal and earth-based tones sweep across all styles, paying homage to many designers’ reconnection with nature during this time. The colours of the moment are a deep burnt orange, situated somewhere between paprika and rust, as well as all shades of camouflage green. Street style sees muted hues complementing the feature colours, such as duck-egg blue, mustard, butter yellow and lavender. The brighter sides of the rich and subdued tones are drawn in through shoes and accessories, bringing pops of vibrant blues, greens and oranges. Prada embraces warm autumnal luxury, styling gold silk shirts and pants under its darker structured suits. These colours offer an opportunity to reflect on a reverence or relationship with nature, reflected though style in the seasons ahead.
The rich tones of the earth have been intricately and delicately arranged through pattern and print, with paisley and plaid experiencing a renaissance in current menswear trends. Street style abounds with various versions of the chunky cable knit and paisley pant combo. The ornate details creating a feeling of warmth and luxury. On the runway, paisley reigned, bringing romance to Etro’s embroidered velvet and silk jackets. Line also found form in the abstract, with the graffiti infused Dolce & Gabbana collection and Missoni’s cardigan collection, depicting colourful winter scenes. Pattern is out to play this coming season. From the ornate to the abstract, anything goes. For a style tip, consider adding dimension to an intricate rounded pattern, like a paisley, by pairing it with the structure of an oversized plaid.
Over-sized tailoring
The seasons to come boast softer silhouettes and patterns, from textural knitwear to rounded paisley patterns. These soft features have emerged from the extended need for comfort and flexibility in our dress. Comfort truly is key when it comes to the unpredictability of a pandemic and that is shown through the sartorial styles of Milan’s runway. Tailoring has taken on an over-sized approach this season, featuring elongated boxy shoulder silhouettes, wide lapels and even bigger wide-legged trousers, giving the wearer a sense of spaciousness in their formal attire.
The boxy silhouettes draw the eye to the collar, where depth is created through layers of soft fabrics such as hoodies, turtlenecks and more. Vetements, Prada, Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana among many other designers, have incorporated a juxtaposition of elite tailoring with slouchy silhouettes in their outwear collections and styling.
On the streets, hoodies layered under over-sized tailored coats epitomise relaxation and structure, synthesising the zeitgeist with traditional tailoring.
When styling for the upcoming seasons, feel the freedom by sizing up with your coats and jackets and play with the art of layering, combining sportswear, knits and tailoring.
Milan Men’s Fashion week has offered a visual symphony of soft textures, ornate prints, grounded tones, vibrant accessories and sartorial elegance, set to guide global menswear for autumn/winter.
As we curate our wardrobes for seasons to come, may we rest in knowing style is innate and personal. It is simply the expression of the wearer.
