British designer Quentin Hart is bringing a new look to famous New Zealand brand Swanndri but tells Amy Parsons-King from Milan the "Swannie" is not going anywhere. Hart, who has worked for top designer Tom Ford, is also taking Swanndri down the catwalk for the first time at Dunedin’s iD Fashion Show.
Q Where are you originally from?
I am originally from South London and lived in my family home until I was 18. My upbringing was fairly modest and we had to live within our means.
Q When and where did you study fashion design?
I actually ended up on a fashion degree after applying for an art foundation course at the University of West England, in Bristol, UK, in 2000. This is the first year which leads on to a BA creative degree. At the time, my intention was to pursue my interest in drawing and painting, but I came to consider where this might lead me, and to think about the future. I eventually chose to head down the fashion design pathway without knowing much about it, other than I had an interest in both textile and design. During my time at uni, I discovered that I really enjoyed this creative medium, and this led me to want to start a career as a clothing designer.
Q One of your earlier design jobs was with Tom Ford. What was it like working for him?
Yes, I joined Tom Ford in 2006 during the time when he and a very small select team were in the process of drawing up and conceiving the first opening range, which was to launch in winter 2007. That was a very exciting time as I was reporting directly to the design director, and working closely with Tom himself to get ready and prepare for the launch. It was an amazing experience working for such an icon and during the time there I had some really unforgettable times all over the world. We worked hard and played hard and, really, you probably wouldn’t believe some of the stories if I told you!
In terms of design, the main thing I learnt is the importance of detail and considering every aspect of a design, no mater how simple it may seem. Every part of every garment, luggage, shoe and accessory was refined to the pinnacle of quality and style, and anything which did not live up to this ethos was literally not allowed!
Q Who else have you worked for?
Aside from Tom Ford, I began my career designing for Jasper Conran in 2004, a well-known British designer and entrepreneur. In New Zealand I have worked as a men’s and women’s designer for Macpac, and I went on to be co-founder and designer of Alchemy Equipment in 2013. I have also been a consultant men’s designer for Australian luxury designer Joe Farage since 2011.
Q How did you come to move to New Zealand and join an iconic Kiwi brand such as Swanndri?
After leaving Tom Ford, I pondered what to do and eventually decided to take six months out of the industry and travel, seeing as I had gone directly from uni into full-time work. This didn’t go exactly as planned as I arrived in Christchurch in mid-2009, intending to stay for a few months, and I fell in love with the place and the way of life and went on to meet my partner some months before the earthquake. Seven years on, we now have a 1-year-old Kiwi daughter and another one on the way!
When I first arrived, I had great difficulty in getting design-related work and so, amusingly, I spent eight months working as a punter, taking scenic tours up and down the Avon in the infamous flat-bottomed punt boats.
I officially launched my own design consultancy in 2015, and I was approached by Swanndri to work with them, which I was delighted to accept and we began to develop the new collection to be shown at the show in March.
Q Have you ever worn the iconic Swanndri top?
Yes, I’ve worn the classic "Swannie", having been lent one by a friend within a week of being in New Zealand. I soon learnt that this was a garment which was heavily culturally embedded and perceived as a true New Zealand icon. I think the bush shirt I first wore was about 20 years old! My first impressions were that it had clearly stood up to the test of time and wouldn’t be giving up anytime soon!
Q Do you hunt/fish/spend time in great outdoors?
I can’t say I’ve ever hunted, it’s not something you tend to do growing up in London! That being said I did recently have an unforgettable experience stalking tahr down in Mesopotamia, although to be truthful all the shooting was with my camera (I’m a very keen photographer). That evening, we cooked a simple tahr stew in the hut, which I have to say was fantastic! I love getting out walking, tramping and camping, and this is one of the reasons I appreciate living in New Zealand.
Other than that, I am a very keen snowboarder and surfer, and living with both the sea and mountains on your doorstep is absolute gold to me!
Q What has it been like transitioning from designing high-end fashion to more casual wear?
Well, at Jasper Conran and Tom Ford, although there was a strong emphasis on tailoring and sartorial clothing, the breadth of the range covered everything from evening wear to casual wear. So, in terms of the type of product I was designing, there was not a huge transition in a lot of ways. Clearly, there are differences in the markets I’m working with these days, and along with that comes some limitations as to what is possible in terms of cost and resource, as with Tom Ford literally anything was possible to be made and no expense was spared.
I’ve found it fairly easy to learn to apply the skills I developed working in the highest end of the global industry to the collections I have been designing recently, although probably the hardest thing I’ve found over the years is needing to adhere to limiting the level of detail, fabric and, ultimately, cost I can put into any given garment due to the reality of the local market. That being said, as a designer you are nearly always working to a brief, so the approach should always be the same no mater what level you are working on.
Q Is Swanndri trying to reach a new demographic with the brand?
I believe Swanndri is recognising that the world is changing, and that even with long-standing iconic brands there is a need to look to the future or become a thing of the past. I think that they recognise that the motto of the brand "Outdoors Everyday" applies to people not only in the country but also in the cities of New Zealand, which we all know get their fair share of adverse weather at times.
To me, I feel that Swanndri want to firmly retain their culture of being attached with the hardworking rural based Kiwi, but also acknowledge that the brand can mean more than that alone, and there are many people in a more urban context who would be proud to wear the Swanndri brand, but where a wool bush shirt wouldn’t perhaps be the most suitable attire. The approach I am taking is to take a good look at what the DNA of the brand is, and extract that from only being this certain particular garment (the classic Swannie) and apply that to the needs of the modern New Zealander who likes to travel, but in between the great outdoors and the metropolitan city.
Q Will you keep producing the iconic items the label is known for or will they be getting an overhaul?
The iconic garments that Swanndri is known for are absolutely going nowhere, they are the foundation and treasured heritage of the brand, and so far I have not so much as touched them since working on this project! There is the possibility in future seasons of perhaps a release of a more modern take on these classic styles, but even then I highly doubt that these would ever replace the much loved Swannie. I think Swanndri are well aware of the importance of this and that they are the custodians of an important part of New Zealand culture and history, so I think anyone concerned that this announcement of Swanndri sending a collection down the runway could mean the end of their favourite old bush shirts can rest assured.
Q Is this Swanndri’s first runway show and what can audiences expect to see?
Yes, as far as I know, this is the first time Swanndri have ever come to take part in a fashion runway show and, given the history of the brand, this doesn’t come as much surprise. The audience can expect to see a nod to the past and a look to the future of the brand, and in the looks we will show we want to try to illustrate that the brand isn’t changing or leaving anything behind but evolving with the times.
Q How would you describe your own personal style — what is your "go to" in workwear and casualwear?
In actual fact, my personal style is fairly simple these days, although I do like to pair some of my Tom Ford shirts and jackets and knits with a pair of jeans and some smart modern sports shoes. I make the effort when it’s required, but I also appreciate that there’s no need to overdress for every occasion these days.
Really, my "go to" garment would be a simple black cotton polo shirt, which no doubt the people I work with would verify! I also love a shawl collar chunky cardigan, which is fantastic for dressing up and down and such a versatile garment.
Q What would be your main pieces of sartorial advice for New Zealand men?
Don’t be afraid of clothes that fit you; think carefully about the kind of garments and colours you wear together; if you are going out — tuck your shirt in!
Q You are in Milan at the moment. What are you doing there?
I travel to Milan every year to visit fabric fairs, mills, suppliers of ties and accessories and European manufacturers. It’s a very important part of what I do because without having access to these things and maintaining my connections with Europe it would be hard to have insight into the global industry.
Q Have you been to Dunedin before? What are you expecting for iD?
I’ve visited Dunedin before, but years ago when travelling the South Island, and not in a professional capacity. I’m really looking forward to getting to know the city better, and also to see the New Zealand industry in action. What I’ll expect to see is an exciting mix of New Zealand style, and I’m sure I won’t be disappointed. I assume it’s likely there will be more of women’s than men’s on show, and I’m really pleased that Swanndri will be showing both.
