Working class-inspired outfit a cut above

By Tim Scott

A collection inspired by 20th-century workwear has netted a Dunedin designer two awards, including the top prize, at this year’s iD Dunedin Fashion Show.

In pictures: iD Dunedin Fashion Show

Recent Te Pukenga Otago Polytechnic fashion graduate Ciaran Naylor was crowned the winner of the $10,000 McMillan & Co first prize in the latter half of last night’s show at the Dunedin Railway Station, as part of the iD International Emerging Designer Awards.

It began with a showcase of collections from a total of 17 New Zealand fashion brands, including prominent Dunedin labels NOM*d, Company of Strangers, Charmaine Reveley and Carlson, along with Arrowtown’s New Lands.

Models sashayed down the 120m runway to a soundtrack ranging from Massive Attack to Kate Bush.

iD International Emerging Designer winner Ciaran Naylor (right) poses with a model during last night’s show at the Dunedin Railway Station. PHOTO: LINDA ROBERTSON

Those from NOM*d walked in almost exclusively Dr. Martens footwear, while a collaborative capsule collection between Atelier Royale and Ater saw a top hat among other uniquely shaped headwear - a feathered hat resembling that of a pirate’s appearing later on.

Knee-high black boots with four separate sets of buckles and headwear made of silver chains also featured.

Mr Naylor’s collection, "New Patina", was a reimagining of early 20th-century working clothes in a modern fashion context, described as "blending ruggedness with elegant contemporary male dress".

It was inspired by photographers Dorothea Lange and August Sander, who documented the working class in the mid-1900s.

Models dressed in his clothes wore newsboy caps, one in paint-splotched trousers and the other lugging a boxy briefcase.

Mr Naylor also took home the Cooke Howlison Mini Sustainability Prize, worth $1000.

A total of 120 designers from fashion schools across the globe entered the awards, and were whittled down to 22 finalists.

Guest judge Dan Ahwa said this year’s finalist cohort had considered all aspects of their design thinking.

"From the concept stage to execution, to the consideration of fabric innovation and storytelling, it was a great judging experience with my fellow judges who all care deeply about the potential of these designers and how they navigate their life beyond the awards process."

The graduate collections opened with gowned models bathed in red and pierced with arrows.

Pink gumboots and handbags shaped as plush cats and dogs also made appearances - one model even carrying a dress-up doll.

For the first time in the show’s history, secondary school fashion students featured on the runway, with 16 young designers from high schools around the country showcasing works.