iD 2011: Couture the European way

Siobhan Moroney among the fabrics and works in progress in a workroom at the Dunedin Fashion...
Siobhan Moroney among the fabrics and works in progress in a workroom at the Dunedin Fashion Incubator. Behind her at the cutting table is Tracy Kennedy, Dfi manager and senior lecturer in fashion design at the Otago Polytechnic. Photo by Peter McIntosh.
When the death of famed British fashion designer Alexander McQueen stunned the fashion world in February last year, young Dunedin designer Siobhan Moroney received sympathetic texts from friends and colleagues.

They knew how the brilliant but troubled man had always inspired and motivated her.

"It's devastating to think that he will no longer be orchestrating his great seasonal shows. I love the way he and other European design houses such as Christian Dior and Chanel show their collections with such impact on the catwalk and how each garment, if studied separately, is beautiful and wearable."

Three months ago, the 26-year-old launched her fledgling business, Siobhan Moroney Couture. To celebrate, she held a boutique show at which her summer 2010-2011 collection, "Staged", was presented.

Garments moved from the flirtatious through to the ladylike. They clearly conveyed Moroney's already distinctive design style that encapsulates drama, theatre, femininity and elegance. The fabrics were fabulous, the silhouettes shapely and sensual.

Her clothes are also delightfully adaptable. Take her double-collared silk jacket. Button up the collar for a dramatic statement; wear it open and the effect is relaxed and easy. It's a jacket that would be as sought-after by a flamboyant theatre-goer as it would be by a student wanting something to amp up a cotton top and skirt.

Moroney plans to operate her business in traditional French couture mode. Each season she will launch a collection comprising limited runs of garments from which people can order. She will also design and make one-off garments for customers, with whom she will work collaboratively, using her own fabrics and designs.

"I am not a seamstress," she said.

Moroney believes this more European approach to business can work in Dunedin.

"I think Dunedin has a discerning fashion public who are prepared to work with someone new if they like what they do. I must put trust in the general public and in my work."

She is setting up with strong support from her parents. Both are self-employed. Her father is musician Mike Moroney, her mother clinical psychologist Bernadette Berry, who is also a singer - and taught her daughter to sew.

Moroney's work will already be familiar to many.

The collection she completed as a third-year student at the Otago Polytechnic School of Design - from which she graduated with distinction with a bachelor of design (fashion) degree - made the Dunedin Railway Station catwalk at iD in 2010. It also won her a place as a finalist in the prestigious 2010 international iD Dunedin Emerging Designer awards.

"It was an incredible experience. While the emerging designers process was challenging, the railway station show was fun and really exhilarating," she said with a smile. She is appreciative of the nurturing environment of the Dunedin fashion community.

She was also awarded a three-month residency at the Dunedin Fashion Incubator, where designers are guided through the process of starting up in business.

"Because I have regular retail work as I need the money, it was not until well into last year that I completed the residency," said Moroney, who understands the balancing act of starting a business and paying the bills.

That she continues to be a resident of the incubator is now her own choice.

Moroney is producing clothes tuned to her philosophy of designing couture that can be worn every day.

"I think a garment that's a little bit dressy makes you feel good. It changes your demeanour. I love when the models wear my clothes. They start dancing; maybe they feel like ladies or maybe party girls.

"I think every day should be a `dress-up' day."

With her background steeped in dance, singing and the theatre, it is inevitable that her design aesthetic is influenced by history, film and drama.

"But I do not agree with people who say that my clothes are costume-y."

Using the couture concept allows Moroney to take slow, measured steps.

"I did not want to start by pouring money and energy into lines to be wholesaled to retailers around the country at a hectic pace. I'd rather take it slowly. I know it's still a risk, but if I did not try I would always kick myself."

This realistic approach is admired by Tracy Kennedy, manager of the incubator and who, as a polytechnic tutor, has tracked Moroney's progress.

"Working in-season has its challenges but means that clients can have their garments made within a shorter time frame than the traditional wholesale/retail turnaround. She's enthusiastic, talented and determined to make her business work on her terms and in her time frame."

Moroney also knows her design style is still evolving.

"I'm really looking forward to where it will be in 10 years' time."


For more

• See the website www.siobhanmoroney.com or the Siobhan Moroney Couture Facebook site.

• Siobhan Moroney will be part of the Dfi "pop up" show during iD fashion week on Wednesday April 6.


 

Add a Comment