Amy Parsons-King talks to three recent Otago Polytechnic fashion graduates who are representing Dunedin at New Zealand Fashion Week.
New Zealand’s most prestigious fashion event takes place next week and three recent Otago Polytechnic fashion graduates will be there representing New Zealand fashion’s underground capital, Dunedin.
Ariane Bray, Kenya Quin and Julia Palm were the top three Otago Polytechnic bachelor of design (fashion) graduates of 2015, and have been selected to showcase their collections as part of New Zealand Fashion Week’s inaugural Graduate Show, something the polytech’s academic leader of fashion, Margo Barton, said was a fantastic opportunity, not only for the designers but also for the school.
"We just received the delegate list of attendees, including the international VIP press, buyers etc. ... I think that this is going to mean so much to their careers and to Otago Polytechnic graduates in the future. It’s such a brilliant opportunity."
The show has been conceived as another pathway to success in the fashion industry for up-and-coming New Zealand designers, and is open to selected fashion institutions, including Otago Polytechnic, Massey University and New Zealand Fashion Tech.
"We were invited to put forward our three top students to be part of this inaugural graduate show," Barton says.
"There were two levels of selection: first the institution was selected, and then we (the institution) selected the designers based on their marks from their graduate collections from the end of 2015."
Each designer has their own unique design aesthetic and a common commitment to sustainable fashion design processes.
• The 16th annual New Zealand Fashion Week runs from August 22-28 at the Auckland Viaduct Events Centre.
Kenya Quin.
Kenya Quin
Q Where are you originally from?
I was born in Singapore but moved to New Zealand before my first birthday. I lived in Wellington through most of primary school, moving in 2004 to Dunedin, where I currently reside.
Q How do you feel about being selected to show at NZFW?
I am extremely excited to have the opportunity to launch my brand WINIFRED into the New Zealand fashion market, showing potential employers, stockists and customers what I can do.
Q What’s the inspiration behind your collection and how is that translated through your clothing?
My graduate collection ‘‘In the Making’’ is comprised of many interchangeable pieces in response to the prevalence of mental illness in the creative industries. It utilises expressive embroidery as craft therapy, a healing creative outlet. Many garments have a relaxed fit that ties or wraps around the body, combined with layers of fabric and styling to give a weight that can be interpreted as constraining or comforting. Raw edges unravel and leave strands of thread suspended from the garments to express the theme of an unravelling mind and to represent a never-ending state of creating. Chinese colour systems inform the soft and calming palette, which enhances the sense of relaxation for the designer-maker and for the wearer. The hand embroidery is the result of a therapeutic action; it is messy, unplanned and unravelling, never finished. ‘‘In The Making’’ communicates the endless cycle of anxiety, disappointment, happiness, recognition and satisfaction as the creative process continues. With extending my body of work I have introduced a textile technique of shirring, using rows of elastic to bring in the silhouettes of garments and create texture.
Q What styles, fabrics/materials have you used?
The silhouettes within my collection are minimal and play with fit and flare. I use natural fibres, including silk, cotton, rayon and wool.
Q How many individual pieces will you be showing?
The outfits I am showing at NZFW are an extension of my graduate collection. The original collection was six outfits comprised of 22 interchangeable pieces. I have made 17 new garments that I will style alongside some of my graduate pieces to form the eight outfits I will be showing at the event.
Q What do you hope to gain from the experience?
This is my first time attending NZFW so I am eager to attend the events throughout the week, meet other existing and emerging designers and engage with the industry.
Julia Palm.
Julia Palm
Q Where are you originally from?
I was born in Sweden, then moved to Nelson when I was 5 years old. I lived in the North Island for seven years before coming to Dunedin in 2014.
I came here for a holiday in 2013 to visit my best friends. I fell in love with the city and the supportive art, music and fashion scene that is thriving here. I then decided to transfer my degree to Otago Polytechnic, and graduated at the top of the class at the end of last year.
Q How do you feel about being selected to show at NZFW?
I am totally in awe. It is so exciting to be able to bring my design to a larger audience! I can’t wait!
Q What’s the inspiration behind your collection and how is that translated through your clothing?
My new collection titled ‘‘Discordia’’ for autumn/winter 2017 introduces a collaboration with Dunedin-based artist Esta de Jong. I have always reached for inspiration from a personal history, and this time I am taking textile references from my involvement in punk culture. This is evident through the use of photographic patches, bleach splatter and hand-stitched elements. I want to create thought-provoking and interesting design, that ultimately empowers the wearer.
Q What styles, fabrics/materials have you used?
I would say the JPALM aesthetic is moody, empowering and bold. My new collection ‘‘Discordia’’ is dark, with interesting textures coming through, such as PVC, leather, faux fur, photographic patches and an exclusive digital print.
Q How many individual pieces will you be showing?
I am showing eight outfits, including jewellery and handbags.
Q What do you hope to gain from the experience?
I am so excited to share my emerging brand JPalm with a larger audience, to make new friends and enjoy the whole NZFW experience.
Ariane Bray.
Ariane Bray
Q Where are you originally from?
I am originally from England, which is where I grew up; however, I have lived in Dunedin for several years and consider this to be home.
Q How do you feel about being selected to show at NZFW?
It is an incredibly exciting opportunity and I feel honoured to be a part of such a prestigious event. This will be my first New Zealand Fashion Week, and the debut of my brand to the New Zealand market.
Q What’s the inspiration behind your collection and how is that translated through your clothing?
The collection began with the inspiration of the titan arum; considering ideas of perception and illusion. This is represented through alternative patternmaking and textile manipulation.
The collection has a slow-fashion focus and mixes a gritty aesthetic with soft accents to create styles that are evocative and considered. Drape and tailoring are juxtaposed to create original silhouettes.
Q What styles, fabrics/materials have you used?
The collection uses a range of high quality natural fabrics, including wool crepe, silk and linen. The colour palette consists of muted tones and has an overall moody air. Emphasis is placed on creating timeless styles that are investments in a wearer’s wardrobe. Wearability is integral: the clothing must feel good to wear, soft to touch and adapt to each wearer.
Q How many individual pieces will you be showing?
The collection consists of eight outfits, with more than 20 individual garments as well as accessories.
Q What do you hope to gain from the experience?
Showing at New Zealand Fashion Week is an incredible opportunity to be presented with, especially for a young brand. It is an exciting platform that provides potential to gain the attention of fashion buyers and media and develop my brand profile for introduction into the commercial market.
