Haute Couture shows in Paris this week featured opulent craftsmanship on elaborate runway settings.
A twist on Chanel's trademark tweed suiting. PHOTO: REUTERS
Chanel
Chanel creative director Virginie Viard chose a quai on the Right bank of the bustling Seine River for her fall haute couture catwalk show, a setting that added breeziness to a relaxed and elegant line-up.
Models strode across the cobblestones lining the river, parading tweed suits lined with tufts of tulle or embellished with flower motifs in autumn tones as tourists floated by on the city's famous bateaux mouches (tourist boats), exchanging waves with the audience.
French model Caroline de Maigret opened the show, her brown hair worn loose over her shoulders, in a long tweed overcoat cinched at the waist and gold-tipped heels.
Dressier looks followed, including a shimmery, black dress coated in sequins and an all-gold skirt and jacket ensemble, while more bohemian silhouettes included a loose pink and orange blouse paired with a full skirt in gold and black tweed.
Adding to the nonchalant spirit, one model was accompanied by a sleek, black labrador, while other models carried baskets of flowers.
Closing the show, they walked in pairs and trios, and the jazzy soundtrack gave way to the 1980s duet by Elton John and France Gall, Donner pour donner.
Dior
For her fall show, Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri reined in the volumes often associated with haute couture fashion and sent out a line-up of slender dresses and capes in neutral tones and touches of gold and silver.
"The complexity is not so visible," Chiuri told Reuters, pointing to tiny stitches fixing pleats on a dress.
The designer mined styles associated with classical antiquity - she grew up in Rome, surrounded by statues from the era - and, moving away from pinched waists, offered long, column dresses, opera coats and capes.
Embellishments were kept to a minimum, and included pearls and flat braids, while metallic threads added texture to jacquard fabrics.
"I like to transform the traditional jacquard and brocade into something more natural - I like the contradiction between the two materials, I think I can create something new," she said, noting raw silk was woven into the fabric of a dress and jacket ensemble, alongside metallic thread.
The show kicked off the first day of Haute Couture Week in Paris, drawing crowds, photographers and celebrities to the entrance of the Rodin museum.
It was held in a tent lined with artwork by artist Marta Roberti. Towering scenes of animals, plants and naked women in yoga positions sought to evoke goddesses and animals associated with them.
Roses of all sizes featured in the Giorgio Armani Prive collection.
Giorgio Armani Prive
Giorgio Armani layered on the shimmer and shine for his fall haute couture collection, sending sparkling pantsuits and ballgowns down a slick runway.
The 88-year-old designer worked a sombre colour palette for the Giorgio Armani Prive lineup, mostly restricted to red, black and gold.
He coated red dresses with rows of beads of the same colour, while evening jackets were often embellished with floral motifs.
Three-dimensional roses of all sizes appeared throughout the collection, accenting necklines and adorning shoulders.
Models walked slowly and deliberately in stilettos with pointed toes, which poked out from under the raw hems of mesh skirts and silk trousers.
Slicked-back hairstyles, slender clutches and prominent earrings completed the looks.
The Italian designer closed the show with a crimson bridal dress, the sparkling white bodice covered in red flowers.
Front row guests included American actress Sydney Sweeney, American actor Noah Centineo and British actress Emma Thompson.
