Dunedin fashion hub Just Atelier focuses on style as well as substance, writes Shane Gilchrist
Amid the chatter and bustle of young models preparing to don outfits at Trident House, in Dunedin's warehouse precinct, fashion designer Melanie Child is celebrating the virtues of something old, yet new.
She discusses a one-off couture piece, a dress made from upcycled scraps of old jeans, its bands of colours graduating from black to light blue and back to black.
''I use a lot of dark or stark colours - black, white or blue,'' Child says.
''Denim is becoming my signature. I think because it is such a common fabric people can relate to it.''
Child's denim dress is one of three ''finale'' pieces among a 10-piece collection from the label that bears her name. Ranging from streetwear to more high-end items, they will join a procession of other designers' garments on display at the Vogel Street Party, which runs from 3pm-10pm today in Dunedin's warehouse precinct, at 6pm.
The showcase is one of two events organised by fashion hub Just Atelier to celebrate its half-year birthday as a not-for-profit trust.
Based on the theme of ''Literature and Light'', the showcase will involve students from RASA School of Dance presenting street-style items by Senorita AweSUMO, Aunty, KWOK's Revolution, Gemma, Justine Tindley, Ariane Bray and STeeP STReeT, as well as a selection by designers from the Otago University Students' Association.
As part of the Vogel Street Party festivities, Just Atelier is also hosting a ''Crafternoon'' of community workshops, allowing visitors the chance to witness - and take part in - practical demonstrations on how to mend and resurrect favourite old garments, as well as learn how to make sustainable food wrap and fruit bags.
Just Atelier was established by Fiona Clements, responsible for the Senorita AweSUMO label, and Fiona Jenkin, of True Expression Personal Style Coaching. The fashion hub's aim is to offer solutions to the issue of social and environmental waste in the fashion industry.
''There is a strong theme of empowerment in what we do. I think people need to be shown the skills so they can go on to do things for themselves,'' Clements says.
''We all wear clothing, but a lot of us don't see the value in it.
''For example, we think it's cheap so throw it away when it gets a tear in it, then replace it with something else that's cheap. Many people don't think about buying something that might last a bit longer.''
The idea is to get people asking questions when they go shopping. That includes asking questions of retailers, Clements says.
''I think a lot of people don't know where their clothes come from. I prefer natural fabrics. They breathe easier and are better for the skin.''
By ''natural'', Clements means fabrics produced by sustainable methods. In contrast, for example, the environmental impacts of non-organic cotton are significant: the industry uses more than 20% of the world's insecticides and 10% of all pesticides.
Although Clements has witnessed a growth in ethical consumerism overseas, she thinks Dunedin consumers have been slower to catch on to the idea.
''Part of that has to do with money, but also I think we don't understand the concept of buying quality clothes that will last. When you purchase an item, if you're not going to wear it at least 30 times, you need to ask if you really need it.
''I've been trying to make a sustainable wardrobe of my own. I have clothes that I love; they all have a memory for me.
''Because I sew, I can see if a garment has been well-made, if it's been finished properly. Some people might not know those things, so we try to teach them that,'' Clements says.
A non-incorporated group before it became a not-for-profit trust, Just Atelier manages Trident House. A key aim is to strengthen networks between designers and the community. This extends to teaching people about sustainable clothing, including how to extend the longevity of clothing as well as mend garments.
''We've now got three designers, including myself, working from the building,'' Clements says.
''We do a monthly mending session [for koha] and are starting to do sewing classes, familiarising people with sewing machines ... we have a raft of plans, including doing a pop-up in the middle of Dunedin at some point.''
SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING TIPS
Fiona Jenkin, of True Expression Personal Style Coaching, offers these tips for shopping for the long-term...
• Know the purpose behind the purchase
Think of the form, function and feel. It needs to look great and make you look great, be comfortable, practical to wash, wear and store, as well as make you feel confident about yourself and what you want in life.
• Know thyself
The more you know, the less you need. What are your key colours, shapes and style themes?
• Shop in your own wardrobe
Think about how you can wear ''that old thing'' in a new way.
• Make friends, not strangers
Any new item needs to go with at least three items you already own, while adding something new to bring your past into your present.
• Beware the bargain
Do not shop during a SALE (Self-doubt; Appeasing others; Last-minute; Exceptional circumstances).
