Cosy and cool

Slick Willy's owner Amy Henderson with the ''coat of the season'', a  black silk-lined cashmere...
Slick Willy's owner Amy Henderson with the ''coat of the season'', a black silk-lined cashmere and leather design by Australian label Bassike. Photo by Gerard O'Brien.
This Charmaine Reveley dress coat will brighten the darkest winter day. Photos supplied.
This Charmaine Reveley dress coat will brighten the darkest winter day. Photos supplied.
The Grumpy Coat by Nom*D follows this winter's loose, unisex approach.
The Grumpy Coat by Nom*D follows this winter's loose, unisex approach.
The Grumpy Coat by Nom*D from front.
The Grumpy Coat by Nom*D from front.
A black duffle-like coat by Gorman (right).
A black duffle-like coat by Gorman (right).
The Enclosure Coat by Taylor.
The Enclosure Coat by Taylor.
Taylor's Instinct Merino Anorak.
Taylor's Instinct Merino Anorak.

At least one quality coat is essential for surviving Dunedin's winter. Rosie Manins explores the trends and options available this season.

Like a pair of boots or a puppy, a winter coat is a significant investment worthy of consideration.

Most women (and some men) understand the need for a coat to last the seasons; one which will endure years, if not decades, of changing fashion.

So where to begin?Black is an obvious choice and wool an equally sensible suggestion.

Coats should be compatible with the majority of a wardrobe so they can be worn day after day and still look fresh.

A quality coat may cost hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars but if it keeps you snug and stylish for 10 years the price is surely worth it.

This winter a few common themes have emerged, including the return of the pea coat.

Originally worn by sailors, peacoats have adapted over the years to cater for various uses and trends.

Worn by men and women, peacoats have never been far from the top of a fashionista's priority list, but subtle details distinguish between the trends of the time.

The peacoat of 2013 tends to have a wider fit from the chest down, almost in a swing coat-style, with a slight flare from the armpit.

Its collared, button-down form can be double- or single-breasted and most retailers stock both options.

Like many winter coats this year, peacoats are a one-colour-wonder.

Patterned fabric is more likely to go out of fashion faster, Slick Willy's owner Amy Henderson says.

''Sometimes it's best to keep it simple because you might not wear a patterned coat for more than one season. Most people look to buy a jacket that will last.''

Fortunately for decorative dressers, patterned pants and dresses are in serious demand as the most popular items to wear with winter jackets.

So a monochrome coat doesn't have to mean a dull outfit.

The general consensus among retailers is that navy is the colour of the season.

Designers are embracing traditional navy as well as exploring other marine hues including turquoise and royal blue.

Kate Sylvester's $889 turquoise coat with gold buttons has sold out from Belle Bird Boutique and the rich navy option is also proving popular.

Orange is the choice among more daring shoppers.

It appears in many winter 2013 catalogues and only one ''morange'' peacoat remains on the shelves at Slick Willy's, while a single Deborah Sweeney peacoat in orange is left at Belle Bird Boutique.

Whether cold or warm, colours are bright.

''Fluro is also really popular at the moment. We have a lot of bright yellow which is being worn with black and leather,'' Miss Henderson says.

Belle Bird Boutique owner and Belle Bird designer Shelley Tiplady says coloured ''statement'' coats are in favour among older women.

''Overall, people are being a lot more daring with colour, but it's generally older women wanting to go for something bright because they already have a black coat in their wardrobe. Younger girls still go for black because it's an investment.''

The juxtaposition of contrasting fabrics, particularly wool and leather, is also very hot right now.

If there is one jacket to sum up winter 2013 it is a black woollen trench with black leather sleeves.

Australian label Bassike offers a luxury edition for $1149. It boasts cashmere, Australian leather and a silk lining.

Cheaper versions, for between $300 and $600, are also available and tend to comprise synthetic fabric constructed in China.

But they will still keep you warm and looking good.

''We are a university town so we stock more in that price range. If you work out how much it costs you over five or 10 years, it's nothing,'' Miss Henderson says.

Double-breasted jackets and sporty raincoats are popular options for men, while female designs are taking on a more androgynous look.

The move away from fitted coats supports this.

''There's a big sport influence coming through fashion at the moment, and that's a worldwide trend. It's massive,'' Miss Henderson says.

''People will wear a $1000 jacket with a pair of sneakers.''

Classic trench coats remain in style, typically in tan or navy, and work well with the sporty theme.

Perhaps in reference to trenches, most coats tend to be longer this year, with hemlines at or around the knee rather than the hip.

While some still feature waist belts and ties, they typically do so in partnership with loosely-shaped bodies or stiff, heavy fabric.

Belle Bird's $389 Sun-Ra Circle Cape has been eagerly snapped up and more are being made.

''There is more of an overcoat style this year, slightly oversized coats which can be worn with lots of layers. People aren't so concerned about a really fitted look anymore,'' Miss Tiplady says.

Dress coats featuring frilled waists and fuller skirts are a more feminine option for those who get lost in baggy styles.

Charmaine Reveley has a warm yellow-mustard version and Karen Walker has one in pink.

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