In an historic 1882 Dunedin Victorian building overlooking the Octagon, once the offices of the ANZ Bank at street level, brothers Steve and Tim Hannagan have built Bacchus Wine Bar and Restaurant into an award-winning, destination restaurant.
Bacchus was one of the first licensed wine bar premises established in the Octagon, where there are now more than a dozen hospitality-related businesses. Some sites have seen three or four business changes during that time.
From a suggestion to brother Steve Hannagan, then in the middle of a gloomy third winter in the UK, accountant brother Tim Hannagan first floated the idea of a wine bar in Dunedin.
Plenty has changed in the past 20 years, from glasses of wine at $2.50 to $14 and mains from $12 to $37, while the cost of a bottle of Dom Perignon has risen 115% from $195 to $420.
The original $130,000 fit-out in 1992 would easily translate to hundreds of thousands of dollars today.
The brothers' mantra is quality local produce and consistency in delivering an uncomplicated menu, much of which is down to head chef Rose Lock, one of four full-time staff and 12 part-timers.
She has been with Bacchus since opening, and subsequently 18 of the past 20 years.
The restaurant has won the coveted New Zealand Beef and Lamb Hallmark of Excellence for 12 consecutive years, reflecting consistency in delivering signature lamb and beef fillet dishes, Mr Hannagan said.
"But if we drop the rhubarb creme brulee, customers have said they won't come back," he said.
The restaurant can lay claim to its share of visits by prime ministers, sirs and dames, royalty, business leaders and sports stars.
"You treat everyone who comes through the door as if they might order a glass of Dom," Mr Hannagan said, reminded of a customer who ordered a plate of nachos, followed by a bottle of Dom Perignon to wash them down.
The brothers have amassed a creditable global wine cellar, including decades-old vintages.
From New Zealand white wines under $40 through to reds starting at $40, the extensive wine list climbs to $1800 bottles for 2007 Chateau Haut Brion (Pessac Leognan), 2007 Chateau Latour (Pauillac) or a 2006 Chateau Margaux (Margaux).
"But first you have to deliver good food, before you can think about the good wine," Steve Hannagan said.
