Digging down into China’s past

I write from Chengdu in western China, a city of 20 million that commands the fertile Sichuan Plain, backed by the Himalayan foothills. We have been celebrating the 90th anniversary of the discovery of its ancient predecessor, the incredible ancient city of Sanxingdui.

From the first explorations into early Chinese civilisations, the Central Plains bordering the Yellow River have held centre stage. But the balance has now shifted to the Yangtze River and Sichuan. In 1985, two large pits were discovered within the walls of Sanxingdui, dating back to about 1200 BCE.

Over the past four years, more have been identified and their excavation is akin to space exploration, the masked diggers in space suits suspended on hydraulic platforms.

It is what they are finding that almost defies belief. The first layer comprises ash, and then elephant tusks, nearly 400 in one pit alone, a monster tusk 1.85m long. Below the tusks, the excavators probe into bronzes, easily the largest and finest from the ancient world. There are huge masks with protruding eyes, covered in gold. A sacred tree with seven branches stands nearly 4m high, heavenly birds perched on each branch.

I was speechless when able to witness, at first hand, the bronze shaman king standing more than 3m, his arms once holding, probably, an elephant tusk.

There are highly decorated vessels, human figures holding altars, birds and snakes, a host of weird human masks. And the bronzes are but a prelude to more, for down deeper, there were jade ceremonial blades, daggers and discs. And to cap it all, there are golden human masks and tigers.

Whatever was the purpose of these sacrificial pits? We spent two days probing possibilities. The city was walled and, within, there was a palace area and zones set aside for jade workshops.

Possibly the biggest prize of all will come one day, when we discover the royal tombs and let’s hope that they survive intact, like the pits. I say we, because my Chinese colleagues have invited me back for more.

As if Sanxingdui were not enough, our field trip yesterday proceeded to its successor city. Jinsha is located in a suburb of Chengdu and the area excavated was colossal.

The five exhibition halls of its treasures culminate in a sacred golden disc with four heavenly birds flying round a sun of 12 rays. So precious, it is one of only 148 artefacts that must never leave China.

But I leave with a debt of gratitude that can never be repaid.