A girls’ night out turned into a shock win for emerging Dunedin designer Tegan Rose Vickery.
‘‘This garment had all three of us judges out of our seats when we first saw it,’’ judge Vicki Taylor said of the oversized pant suit that earned its maker, Vickery, the overall prize at this year’s MLT Hokonui Fashion Design Awards.
The 26-year-old, who had travelled to Gore with her mum and sister more for a ‘‘nice girls’ night away’’ than with any expectation, says hearing her name announced as the winner by the evening’s MC, Hilary Barry, was ‘‘a complete shock!’’
‘‘[It was] so unexpected. It took me a minute to click that Hilary had called my name. My sister had to shake me. She actually cried. I was just laughing, because it was just so unbelievable to me.’’
Co-judge Natalie Newlands says they were ‘‘truly captivated’’ by Tegan’s submission, which ‘‘demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship and considerable effort in constructing such a large garment’’.
‘‘Moreover, the story behind the design was both genuine and moving. The composition, colour use and attention to detail made it an extraordinary entry that excited us on many levels. It made such an impact.’’
Impeccably cut and tailored from swathes of vivid tangerine linen and paired with a kaleidoscopically hued silk blouse with exaggerated sleeves, Vickery’s entry, which also took out the Open Daywear award, was an exploration and expression of her experience with eating disorders.
Describing herself as ‘‘a recovering bulimic’’, Vickery says her design played on ideas about hiding her body and making herself feel comfortable, and her issues with that.
‘‘I wanted to play with scale and proportion as I felt it reflected both my childhood of putting on my dad’s shirt and absolutely drowning in it, but also a reflection of my own wardrobe getting bigger and bigger on me as I spiraled down with my eating disorder,’’ she says.
‘‘I’m not really sure what led me to use such vibrant colours for such a serious inspiration. I suppose it stems from turning negatives into positives, as the design itself was the response to my own struggles and a speed bump that occurred over the summer.’’
The entire look is made of 100% natural fibres, right down to the threads holding it together.
The shirt is 100% silk satin, the trousers are 100% linen and the jacket is 50% linen and 50% cotton canvas - all sourced from The Fabric Store,’’ she said.
‘‘I’m quite particular with my fabric choices. I like the fabric to tell me what it wants to be and go from there.’’
Now in her fourth year of study in Otago Polytechnic’s renowned fashion programme, Vickery says she first dabbled in fashion design ‘‘as a creative outlet’’ rather than a career option.
‘‘I taught myself how to sew and play around. I think it was my dad that told me I should go and study fashion. Before then, I never saw myself studying at all, as during my school years I wasn’t very well and I just got by with NCEA.
‘‘I’m so thankful to those who had my back and supported me through my journey.’’
Vickery says she chose to study in Dunedin not only because her family lives there ‘‘and I am very family-oriented’’ but also as ‘‘the fashion design school at Otago Polytechnic is one of the top-ranked fashion schools in the world and is recognised internationally’’.
‘‘I wouldn’t be where I am now without the support from the lecturers at the fashion school,’’ she says.
‘‘They have taught me so much about everything fashion, and have helped me grow as an individual. Something I greatly appreciate is that you’re encouraged to express yourself and to design your way. They will help teach the technical making skills, but your design is yours!
‘‘I’ve always looked up to Margo [Barton] and she, along with the rest of the fashion team at Otago Polytechnic, will always have a place in my heart. Without them and my family, I wouldn’t be here, let alone where I am today.’’
‘‘The opportunity for collaboration is wonderful!’’
As well as finishing up her honours year, Vickery is immersed in organising a charity fashion show to be held on November 2 in Dunedin, with all profits going to the Life Matters Suicide Prevention Trust.
‘‘The trust is very dear to my heart and a couple of years ago, I wish I’d known they were around. I want to put the spotlight on them for all that they do and show people that they can get through anything,’’ she said.
She will be showcasing 25 outfits ranging from loungewear through to bridal. Two other established designers, Katherine Anne and Lucy Girvan (Eweburn Creek), will also be showing their new collections.
Tickets will be available through Humanitix at the start of September.
‘‘I’m just in the process of finalising/confirming a few key details before tickets go live. Everything will be announced via my brand Instagram - @bespoke-by-tegan.
‘‘At the moment, this is my focus and it’s where I want to put all my energy. After that, I’ll continue to do what I love and launch my label in the new year.’’
