A police spokesperson said police and St John were called to the beach at about 2.30pm after receiving reports of a man in trouble in the water.
"He was brought from the water and given medical attention but unfortunately was not able to be revived."
A spokeswoman from St John said they responded with a helicopter and an ambulance though neither were required for transportation.
A witness at the scene said he was watching surfers at the beach when a helicopter arrived with a paramedic to tend to an injured surfer.
He said he had rarely seen waves so large at the beach.
It was "definitely a big day", but the conditions did not seem dangerous to him and all of the surfers he saw seemed experienced.
Te Runanga o Otakou has now placed a rahui (temporary closure) on the area from Heyward point to the Spit until 3pm Sunday.
Food gathering and swimming are discouraged until the rahui is lifted.
The death will be referred to the coroner.