It's coming - Undone

Their respective talents and shared love of fashion design has led two young women to establish a fashion business and label in Dunedin. Jude Hathaway visited Rachel Webb and Elise Barnes in their workroom.

Two young designers who are fresh out of polytechnic are rapidly consolidating a place in Dunedin's creative fashion scene.

This time last year, Rachel Webb and Elise Barnes were completing their third-year collections at the Otago Polytechnic School of Design (Fashion). Now, they have not only launched a fashion label, Undone; they are also awaiting orders from stockists in Dunedin, Queenstown and Nelson.

Those 2010 polytechnic collections helped them gather kudos and place their respective marks on the New Zealand fashion stage.

Both Rachel's "Creeps In The Deep" and Elise's "Puppet On A String" were selected for the much-anticipated graduate section of the high-flying iD

Dunedin Fashion show at Dunedin Railway Station in March. It's a slot reserved for the school's top students who, as standout talents, secure invaluable exposure through the show.

But, grounded and focused, they were by then planning their first collaborative ranges in the studio they had set up in Salisbury House in Bond St.

Five months on, the samples of the ranges and the look books have been completed. One is a seasonal collection titled "Dream Within A Dream",

from Edgar Allan Poe's poem of the same name. The Romantic period in which it was penned saw a mix of androgyny and femininity, the same contrasts that epitomise Rachel and Elise's respective design aesthetics and underpin their collection of sharp street wear.

They have also developed a compelling bespoke range.

Comprising unique pieces set at a higher price point, it will transcend the seasons to team readily with garments from both the winter and summer ranges.

"It will also be ever-evolving, with new garments coming on board to join or replace others," Rachel explained.

The two young women are willing to put in long hours in their compact studio, interspersing time there with part-time jobs to pay for fabrics and overheads.

They have become adept at time-management.

After a morning's work at the studio, they head to their part-time fashion retail jobs. Elise works at Estilo, the fashion shoe store; Rachel checks in at Carlson fashion boutique.

After work, it's back to their respective flats for an evening meal before they return to the studio at night to put in another four hours on their ranges.

"It's not really work, though; it's what we enjoy," said Elise.

It's evident they work easily alongside each other; they're comfortable within themselves and with each other.

Both come from the South.

Rachel grew up in the West Otago town of Tapanui and went to Gore High School. Elise is from Invercargill, where she attended James Hargest High School. Although they did not meet until they began tertiary studies in Dunedin, their names had become familiar to each other through their high school years.

"We were always competing and battling it out for placings, whether it was in the Bernina Make and Model competitions or the Hokonui Design Awards," said Rachel.

Both excelled and it was almost inevitable they would decide on Otago Polytechnic's School of Fashion to hone their design skills.

However, it was serendipitous that they began studies in the same year.

"I was a year older and in a class ahead of Rachel at high school but while I completed seventh form, Rachel came straight to the polytechnic after sixth form, so we ended up in the same year," Elise explained.

Their very different design styles were evident from the outset, although they have a shared regard for the avant-garde precocity of Belgium's Martin Margiela and the distinctive sculpturing of Balenciaga. There are also Alexander Wang, A F Vandervorst, New Zealand's Zambesi and twentysevennames.

"I love tailoring, making jackets and coats, and enjoy working in leather, heavy wool, cowhides and furs, while Elise enjoys making dresses using soft silks and floaty fabrics," Rachel remarked, adding that she was always envious of Elise's manipulation of fabrics.

Elise: "I'm fascinated how fabrics move, their textures and colours, their romantic aspects and their ability to create moods."

The result is a bespoke range of sensuous silk shirts and tops teamed with leather jackets that are tricked with knitted leather and zip detailing. Sweet-spirited dresses and skirts along with tailored jackets are included in their first seasonal collection.

The young designers see their contrasting design styles - a persistent pull of opposites - as bringing strength and balance to the collections. Most importantly, they hold each other's work in high regard.

It was at New Zealand Fashion Week 2009, which she attended as the winner of the Hokonui Young Designer of the Year award, that Elise made up her mind that, after she graduated, she wanted to start her own business. Back in Dunedin, she put the idea to Rachel, who she knew had similar drive and was also, like herself, results-driven.

Being in a partnership is, they agree, a "sharing of the load". They also agree that the most difficult aspect of setting up in business was finding a name for it.

"We eventually arrived at 'Undone' as it suggests we have had to re-think our design aesthetics to accommodate each other's within the ranges," said Elise.

It is evident that this has nothing to with compromise but, rather, is about adaptability.

The bespoke range will be in stores by December, while "Dream Within a Dream" hits the shops next winter.

The two young women are looking forward to establishing good relationships with retailers.

"They've been really great so far, giving us advice on finishing and how to better present the ranges," Elise said. "With our clothes coming in alongside big names like Zambesi and Karen Walker, they need to be immaculate. Constructive criticism is good, for if people just keep telling us that they love the ranges, we're at risk of just cruising rather than extending ourselves and developing Undone."