Charmian Smith

A good riesling is harmonious: it may be dry or sweet or anything in between and it should have a crisp, acidic finish, but if it's harmonious it won't seesaw between sweetness and mouth-...

Pinot noirs are pouring on to wine shop and supermarket shelves these days. A big 2008 vintage and more vineyards coming into production mean more labels. Some are aiming for igh quality and prices to match, but most seem to be treading the middle ground - $25 to $35. Unfortunately, I've found very little enjoyable pinot under $20.    

Sparkling wine makes any occasion special, and a sticky can round off any dinner to perfection, but it needs to be carefully matched to the dessert - or just serve fresh fruit, plain uilles, or a couple of carefully selected cheeses.   BEST UNDER $20

There's a glut of sauvignon blanc (and other wine) at present so you may well find many on special. Those in this tasting are recently released and almost a year old and many have ellowed, making them more attractive than they probably were when first bottled.   BEST UNDER $20

Wine on line for April 21 With a fashionable wine like pinot noir, there are many "me too'' labels, usually simple, attractive wines with a dollop of spicy oak, which, unfortunately, are priced not so much ccording to the quality of the wine, but what the producers think they can get for it. On the other hand, there are some attractive, modest wines priced more realistically.

Riesling can be an exciting variety with its lively backbone and bright flavours ranging from apples, lime and lemon, to more complex ones suggesting kerosene, dried apricots, honey, and buttered toast and marmalade. Some have a steely backbone taut as a violin string with a dry finish, while others can be gentle and delicate with some sweetness.