The New Zealand Merino Company’s (NZM) Chief Customer Officer, Dave Maslen, says that new brands are putting ethical sourcing at the top of their shopping lists.
“The customers we’ve signed on in recent years are built on strong ethics and deep integrity. These concepts aren’t add-ons, they are fundamental to the brand and in many cases, this is why their customers choose their clothes.
“It’s great news for our growers. They’re producing top quality, natural fibre and not only are the best brands using it - they’re also telling everyone about it.”
NZM has sold wool via forward contracts with brands for 25 years with foundational customers including icebreaker, John Smedley, Reda, Rewoolution, Smartwool and Loro Piana remaining loyal to its growers ever since. But Dave says the new customers and categories opening up to wool are pivotal for the industry.
“The commodity market is the toughest it has been in decades. Growers are battling the complexity of compliance, high interest rates and rising costs for everything from insurance to ear tags.
“We sometimes forget that these are global issues but brands and partners throughout the supply chain are all grappling with the same pressures. We’ve redoubled our efforts in the last few years to attract new customers and drive demand.”
And its working! NZM has added several new names to its stable of brand partners. Last year, US-based direct-to-consumer label Everlane launched its first collection made with NZM’s ZQRX and ZQ wool. The brand gained its cult following by embracing ‘radical transparency and eschewing trend-based fashion.
Oregon-based Branwyn also wears its ethics on its sleeves – not that its garments have sleeves – producing naturally sustainable performance ‘innerwear’ for women. This is a new category for NZM, a foray into synthetic-dominated space, with Branwyn championing wool to its loyal and fast-growing consumer base.
Closer to home, Rodd & Gunn has found that ethical wool resonates with its customers and is actively branding its products, hangtags and store displays with ZQ and ZQRX.
Interest in Natural fibres is also strong in Asia, with sustainability a hot topic. Chinese trail-running brand Outopia is creating incredibly innovative products with wool, to great reception.
“Active outdoor products are on the rise in Asia and customers are highly motivated by natural and sustainable credentials. Not only are we securing new partners, existing customers are seeing growth.
“Icebreaker’s 15.5-micron range is proving hugely popular in China, and Japanese fabric producer Nikke is seeing increased demand. Quality, sustainability and softness are the key drivers.
“The work of our world-leading growers is key. Their efforts to produce top quality wool, while caring for the planet, people and animals sets their wool apart. Brands, and consumers are watching and acting,” says Dave.