Celebrating the queen of punk fashion

Fifteen complete ensembles are on display alongside more than 550 pieces of jewellery. Photo: RNZ
Fifteen complete ensembles are on display alongside more than 550 pieces of jewellery. Photo: RNZ

By Krystal Gibbens of RNZ 

A retrospective exhibition at Te Papa celebrates the work of one of the pioneers of punk fashion.

Vivienne Westwood and Jewellery  opens in Wellington tomorrow.

The exhibition is designed and curated by the house of Vivienne Westwood and produced by Nomad Exhibitions.

RNZ went along for a preview ahead of the official opening. 

Dame Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week in 2020. Photo: Getty Images
Dame Vivienne Westwood at London Fashion Week in 2020. Photo: Getty Images

More than 550 pieces of jewellery and 15 complete ensembles are on display from the British designer, who was one of the pioneers of punk fashion.

Dame Vivienne, also a businesswoman and activist, died in 2022 aged 81.

The exhibition spans a series of rooms, allowing visitors to journey through the decades of Westwood's career from the 1980s. 

Each room has a selection of themed jewellery and an array of garments are also on display.

The exhibition opens with a room showcasing a series of Westwood's ensembles on mannequins.

Vivienne Westwood with Malcolm McLaren in 1976. Photo: Norma Moriceau
Vivienne Westwood with Malcolm McLaren in 1976. Photo: Norma Moriceau

The next room explores the designer's origins.

In her early days she worked with then-partner Malcolm McLaren, the manager of the Sex Pistols, at their London boutique SEX.

Among the pieces is a pair of earrings emblazoned with S-E-X, one of which was worn by David Bowie at the 1996 Brit Awards.

Nomad Exhibitions chief executive Tim Pethick said Bowie had to get his ear pierced backstage in order to wear them.

A choker on display, likewise emblazoned, was worn by Kim Kardashian.

Further into the exhibition, visitors can find a brass crop top worn by Zendaya while promoting her 2021 film Dune, along with a diamond-encrusted bone-shaped choker Timothée Chalamet wore at the London premiere of his film Bones And All.

The choker had been custom-made to fit Chalamet's neck, Pethick said.

Katy Perry wore Vivienne Westwood earrings at the Coronation Concert in 2023.
Katy Perry wore Vivienne Westwood earrings at the Coronation Concert in 2023.

Towards the end of the exhibition visitors can see a pair of cherub earrings worn by Katy Perry at King Charles III's coronation concert in May 2023, along with a hat worn by Westwood.

Ian Douglas, who designs fine jewellery in Wellington at The Village Goldsmith, came along to check out the exhibit.

He said the punk influence was clear, with inspiration taken from utilitarian objects like paperclips and razor blades.

Materials Westwood used were not expensive.

"It's effectively super grand costume jewellery with staggering creative talent," he said and Westwood's execution was top notch.

"Absolutely loved it. Every single piece has just been beautifully thought out."

• Vivienne Westwood and Jewellery is on at Te Papa, Wellington, until April 27.