Gruner veltliner and albarino (originating in Austria and Spain/Portugal respectively) form part of a new wave of less mainstream varieties that are grabbing a toe-hold in the market. You are more likely to see these in independent stores, smaller stores and creative restaurants.
2020 Penkridge Farm Central Otago pinot gris
Price $28
Rating Excellent
Quite a fragrant and appealing
nose, musk, rose petal, apricot
influences. Bright acidity gives
a fresh start, with dried tropical
fruits, apple, spices, and a hint
of Turkish Delight. A nice
combination of richness yet
vibrancy that manages to be
light on its feet. Grows in
body as it opens up. A
refreshing close with good
sapidity.
2022 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Marlborough pinot gris
Price $24
Rating Very good to excellent
Almost a sav blanc-like nose
of sweat and chopped herbs
sashays into pear and florality.
The textural richness takes it
back to the gris camp, some
underlying grassy hints mixing
with ripe stonefruits. There’s
a sweet and sour interplay
going on, which adds to the
freshness. May make a
pinot gris stop and think as
it brings some interesting
drinking to the table.
2021 Misha’s Vineyard Dress Circle Central Otago pinot gris
Price $32
Rating Very good to excellent
Subtlety to the nose allowing
hints of musk and Fruit Pastille
to rise, before typical pear
notes come with aeration.
Deceptive power on the
palate, a touch of chewiness
adding to the textural impact
with lively acidity keeping this
nice and vibrant. The creamy
texture builds with aeration
and there’s a lot on offer
here to enjoy now.
2022 Riverby Estate Single Vineyard Marlborough gruner veltliner
Price $24
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Sweet florality, fragrance,
citrus hinting at Rose’s Lime
Corial and Lime Zest, wisps of
peach and stonefruit, very
engaging. Fatter mouth-feel,
before a shaft of tanginess
akin to grapefruit rushes in
giving a lip-smacking
element to the close, some
spice and pepper with air.
The nose grows adding
touches of orange and
pepper, the palate creamy,
but fresh. Delightful.
2022 Jules Taylor Marlborough gruner veltliner
Price $25
Rating Very good to excellent
Attractively floral again, soap
flakes, citrus, a saline aspect
that shifts from the salty to a
steely/minerally character.
Crisp, bright palate, citrus and
stonefruits to the fore, wisps of
fruit pith joining the mix, the
supple, rounded finish lifted
by a nice touch of acidity.
Aeration brings some fresh
lime juice into play. Nice,
fresh, summer drinking.
2021 Villa Maria Braided Gravels Hawke’s Bay albarino
Price $29.99
Rating Very good to excellent
Inviting nose, a waft of
oyster shell, citrus, white
flowers, fresh herbs, ripe
peach, with time, fragrance
reminiscent of lavender
appears. Creamy and rich in
the mouth before that sea
shell freshness lifts the
palate, spice notes evolving
with air. A lovely
combination of richness
and freshness, delightfully
expressive, brimming with
flavour. Splendid now.
