Curiosity. It is that simple.
Dunedin chef Quiel Mallari had never taken part in a cooking competition and always wondered what it would be like. So when the opportunity came to take part in the New Zealand Developing Chefs Challenge 2023 he decided to give it a go.
"It’s all about curiosity mainly. Honestly, it was quite tough the journey. I’m working in a day-to-day operation, running the restaurant from morning to dinner service. It’s really hard for me to squeeze in time for it but when I put my mind to it."
The head chef at Magic Moments Restaurant in the Law Courts Hotel used his days off to think about the dish, which had to be Chinese or Chinese-inspired and use three sauces of the competition’s main sponsor, Lee Kum Kee.
While Mallari is from the Philippines where he trained in the culinary arts, Chinese culture has had a significant influence on Filipino cuisine as the two countries have long been trading partners. Over the years Filipino cuisine incorporated many Chinese dishes into its repertoire.
In the Philippines, Chinese food is a luxury served in specialist restaurants where families go to celebrate special occasions. Mallari was surprised to find the opposite in New Zealand where it is considered a cheap, easy, takeaway food.
He was inspired by the Chinese food of his homeland and created a dish to share steamed cod with soy dressing, topped with puffed vermicelli and a side of stir-fried greens, and Lo Rou Fan ginger rice surprise with braised pork, pickled cucumber and egg blanket.
"These are inspired by dishes I am familiar with. Lou Rou Fan is one of my favourite foods."
It was also important for him to show seasonality and use local Otago ingredients so his stir-fried greens instead of being traditional Chinese greens were leeks and silverbeet.
"I’ve only been in Dunedin a short time and have found it can be quite tricky to get the produce I want to have."
"It was like diving into the unknown. It was just putting yourself out there really."
In the final in Auckland he had to cook his dish alongside the other finalists which he found a bit intimidating due to their past success. So he just put his head down and cooked, something the judges appreciated, describing him as a “gifted chef with a great future ahead of him”.
"I was here for a mission so I just focused on what I had to do. I was surprised. It all worked out and turned out to be a great outcome."
While the competition was stiff, chef and co-judge Mark Dronjak says Mallari’s dish stood out for its complexity, originality and depth of flavour.
“Quiel’s dish was a wonderful combination of flavours. There was a lot going on, lots of layers, with flavours that all worked beautifully together.”
Co-judge and head chef at many Waitakere Licensing Trust restaurants including Mr Illingsworth, Brick Lane, Iti, The Hangar and The Good Home, Paulie Hooton says it was a really technical dish".
“Quiel was like a silent assassin, just quietly getting things done and make it look easy.”
“The layers of egg blanket and braised pork hidden inside were a welcome surprise indeed.”
The win has been a nice boost for Mallari who is in his first role as head chef responsible for running a restaurant.
"I’m happy with their feedback. They saw the thought I had put into the dishes, the technicality. It sent a message this guy knows what he is doing."
It is a long way from his original intention when he moved to Auckland eight years ago to study business and hospitality management with the idea of moving into front of house hospitality work.
He needed a part-time job while studying so obtained one in a cafe and has not looked back. He has worked everywhere from a retirement village in Orewa, to Filipino restaurant Nanam in Takapuna and the acclaimed Culprit where he worked with Kyle Street doing modern Kiwi cusine in the central business district, even working as a pastry chef at Sky City.
"I’ve worked multiple jobs at the same time. I always aim for top places. I cannot sit still. I’m always looking for challenges. It’s one of the reasons I took up the competition. I’ve got nothing to loose."
But when the opportunity came up to work in Dunedin it seemed to good to pass up as Mallari has a secret passion for magic as well as wanting a better work-life balance.
"It’s more of a slow, chilled environment and magic is close to my heart."
He has enjoyed the past year, getting to know the city and meeting people as well as being close to nature enabling him to explore and forage.
"It’s the small things you appreciate."
As for taking on another competition, Mallari is content to have ticked that box for now, instead wanting to concentrate on the restaurant and showcasing the type of food he likes to cook.
"I’m just getting started. There is lots more potential."
