Central Otago woman Pat Hickey has been following in the footsteps of the saints, writes Pam Jones.
Far from pondering existential questions while retracing the steps of pilgrims on a sacred route in France, Clyde woman Pat Hickey was instead concerned more with the here and now.
What mattered most during her European journey were things of an immediate nature - what would she have for breakfast that morning, where would she sleep that night, how heavy was her backpack that day.
Those seemingly minor matters became the big things in life, representing a simplicity that provided an altered perspective on everyday life.
''When you're doing the trails you live very much in the moment, you live just in that day.
"Your only thoughts are putting your pack on in the morning and wondering where you will buy your bread that day for lunch.
"Your only need is food and water and shelter that night. You think no further ahead than that.''
The pilgrimage was not so much one of a religious nature, although her Catholic faith - Mrs Hickey was previously the principal of St Gerard's School in Alexandra - did add another connection and dimension to the trip, but more an opportunity to do something completely different, she said.
Seeing beauty in the basic, the adventure doubled almost as a retreat, allowing peaceful walking in a foreign land while choosing one's own thoughts each day - whether spiritual or practical.
Having already walked the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail in Spain two years ago with her brother John Hibbs, of Perth, the pair last year decided to walk the ''Chemin de St-Jacques'', also known as the GR65, through France (GR stands for ''Grande Randonnee'', signifying the French network of trails).
The trail starts in Geneva but Mrs Hickey and her brother started instead in Le Puy-en-Velay, in the Auvergne region in France, going on to walk about 735km through France to St Jean Pied-de-Port on the border of Spain.
The pair then went on to Roncesvalles, at the foot of the Pyrenees, where they had started their walking trail two years ago and planned to rest for a time before walking back into the Pyrenees.
However, the weather in the Pyrenees region was so bad and the forecast similarly atrocious that the pair decided to do another walking trail on the spur of the moment, going on to walk another 700-odd km on the Camino del Norte, crossing the top of Spain to arrive in Luarca.
The pair then travelled by bus back to the Spanish/French border, and took the train to Bordeaux, where they ''transitioned'' for about 10 days before returning to their respective homes.
Important religious pilgrimages dating back to medieval times, Europe's network of walking trails is now travelled by thousands each year, who are a mix of followers on spiritual quests and those seeking time out from the rat race.
The trails go through many remote areas and small villages, passing various sacred sites and often ending in a particularly holy place, for example the Camino de Santiago Mrs Hickey walked two years ago ended in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the apostle St James are buried.
The GR65 and Camino del Norte Mrs Hickey walked during the European spring and summer this year combined gentle undulating territory with some steeper climbs, and featured a range of accommodation from tent sites and basic hostels to more comfortable B and Bs.
Food was available at little shops or cafes, with the humble baguette and much-loved ''prix fixe'' (set price) menus proving especially popular with Mrs Hickey and her brother.
Each trail took about 30 days to travel, walking about 20km-25km each day, which was ''perfectly manageable'' with her good level of fitness and light walking boots.
All along the trails were warm friendly people, as well as welcoming chapels and little signs to let walkers know they were literally on the right track.
''There were little friendly gestures everywhere, such as arrows, or fruit trees that had been planted to provide food for those on the trail. The signs showed the kindness of the people - even when you couldn't see them [the people], you could tell that they were friendly.''
For Mrs Hickey, who was 65 when she did the trail and is 66 now, reflections of her trip are a mix of specific times and locations and general moments and memories; sometimes she remembers a particular church or Roman relic that brought joy, other times.
''I can't tell you exactly where something was. I can tell you how I felt at the time, and what the weather was like, and how my pack felt that day, but I can't actually remember where we were at that particular time''.
She especially loved the French philosophy of eating, which was to shut up shop and go home for a slow, often two-hour meal.
''Our lunch was generally some bread and some cheese along our walk but often for dinner we would go out and find a meal that gave us wine, water, bread and two courses for just 12 euros.
"It was wonderful, I just love that whole thing of slowing down, sitting down and enjoying the food and the company. The French have such a respect for food, they appreciate it and show gratitude for it.
"And French food is so simple, so fresh and uncluttered. It keeps all the flavours and is just beautiful.''
A dedicated gardener, she also thrilled at the wild flowers and more formal gardens along the trails - ''the whole of France is a garden in itself'' - as well as the ''almost overwhelming'' sense of history felt while retracing pilgrims' steps.
''We weren't just walking the trails - we were also travelling through the seasons and back in time.''
Her brother, who has spent the past three years walking the world, is currently in Cambodia. But more walking treks are on the cards for Mrs Hickey too. The Pyrenees and other European trails beckon.
• Pam Jones is a reporter with The News Lakes District and Central Otago.
