Trio re-enact historic Aspiring climb

Whitney Thurlow models the kind of attire that might have been worn 100 years ago for climbing....
Whitney Thurlow models the kind of attire that might have been worn 100 years ago for climbing. Photo by Marjorie Cook.
Three mountaineers are today poised to re-enact the first ascent of Mt Aspiring 100 years ago, wearing clothing and using gear from the early 1900s.

Whitney Thurlow and Gavin Lang, of Aspiring Guides, and their client, Aritza Monasterio, a Peruvian guide climbing his first New Zealand peak, were last night due at French Ridge Hut on the mountain ready for their summit push.

Poor weather could thwart their plans today.

Tomorrow is their back-up day.

The first ascent was completed by Englishman Major Bernard Head and his two New Zealand guides, Alec Graham and Jack Clarke, on November 23, 1909.

"He [Aritza Monasterio] is going to be Bernard Head and we will be the two Kiwi guides," Mr Thurlow said last week.

Having never previously climbed in tweeds, Mr Thurlow thought he might not take the re-enactment to the fullest extent possible.

"For example, we will wear crampons," he said.

"They didn't have them back then."

The party would also leave the firewood behind. (Climbing parties at the turn of the 20th century took large amounts with them.)

Zinc ointment was used to prevent sunburn in 1909, while ice axes were made from hickory or cane and were heavier and longer than the composite steel and aluminium tools used today.

Packs were made from heavy, water-absorbing cotton canvas rather than waterproof, light nylon and polyester fabrics.

Several accomplished women were climbing mountains in the early 20th century, including Lillian Familton, of Oamaru, who was the first woman to climb Mt Aspiring in 1919, and they actually wore trousers, although official photos showed them in dresses, Mr Thurlow said.

They also had to take chaperones - having two men for company was considered better than one - but the women could still not sleep in the tent with their companions and had to stay outside.

The 2009 climbers will take the route used by Maj Head's party; leaving from French Ridge, crossing the Bonar Glacier and approaching the summit between the more commonly climbed southwest and northwest ridges.

Mr Thurlow expected to complete the return trip from French Ridge Hut in 12 to 14 hours.

Maj Head's route is not the easiest way to the summit, but is rather direct.

The Mt Aspiring/Tititea centenary anniversary is being celebrated by the New Zealand Alpine Club, Department of Conservation and climbers at the Lake Wanaka Centre at 7.30pm on November 28.

Speakers include climbers Geoff Wayatt, Alan Uren and John Cocks, extreme skier Geoff Small, farmer John Aspinall, artist and climber Martin Hill and musician Martin Curtis.

NZAC Otago section chairman Paul Prince will be master of ceremonies.

 

 

 

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